The fiery sun dipped below the horizon, painting the sandstone cliffs of Utah in hues of molten gold. That image, seared into my memory, is the perfect introduction to the magic that is Utah Route Twelve National Scenic Byway. Forget the crowded national parks for a moment, and imagine a road that winds through a landscape sculpted by eons, a road that whispers tales of ancient inhabitants and geological wonders. This isn’t just a drive; it’s an immersion into the heart of the American Southwest, a journey that will leave you breathless and yearning for more. This travelogue recounts my personal experience exploring this breathtaking route, highlighting the key attractions and offering advice to help you plan your own unforgettable adventure.
Utah Route Twelve is more than just a road; it’s a designated National Scenic Byway, a recognition bestowed upon routes deemed to possess exceptional scenic, historic, recreational, cultural, archaeological, and natural qualities. This distinction underscores its importance and guarantees that your journey will be filled with awe-inspiring sights and unforgettable experiences. It provides access to some of the most unique and varied landscapes in the United States, from the otherworldly terrain of the Escalante Petrified Forest to the breathtaking panoramas of the Hogsback, a knife-edge ridge with drop-offs on either side. Prepare to witness the raw power of nature and the enduring beauty of the desert.
Planning Your Adventure
Embarking on a road trip along Utah Route Twelve requires some planning to make the most of your experience. The best time to visit is during the spring and fall months, when the temperatures are mild and comfortable for hiking and exploring. Summer can be scorching, especially in the lower elevations, and winter can bring snow and ice, making some sections of the road impassable.
Consider starting your journey in either the town of Torrey, near Capitol Reef National Park, or in the town of Panguitch. Both towns offer a range of accommodations and services, making them convenient starting points. If you are flying into the area, the nearest major airports are located in Salt Lake City and Las Vegas, both of which are approximately a four to five-hour drive from the start of Route Twelve.
Your itinerary will depend on your interests and the amount of time you have available. However, I suggest at least three to five days to fully appreciate the highlights of the byway. This allows you to explore the hiking trails, visit the museums, and soak in the breathtaking scenery at a leisurely pace.
To ensure a smooth and safe journey, consider the following travel tips. A vehicle with high clearance is recommended, especially if you plan to explore some of the unpaved roads leading to remote trailheads. Pack plenty of water, sunscreen, and a hat, as the desert sun can be intense. Sturdy hiking shoes are essential for exploring the numerous trails along the route. Be aware that cell service can be limited in some areas, so it is advisable to download offline maps and inform someone of your itinerary. Accommodation options range from camping in designated campgrounds to staying in hotels and motels in the nearby towns. Book your accommodations in advance, especially during peak season, as they tend to fill up quickly. Finally, always respect the environment and leave no trace behind, preserving the beauty of this remarkable landscape for future generations.
A Journey Through Time and Stone
Our adventure began in the town of Escalante, a charming community nestled amidst the towering sandstone cliffs. Our first stop was Escalante Petrified Forest State Park, a surreal landscape where ancient trees have been transformed into colorful stone. Walking among the petrified logs, it’s easy to imagine the vast forests that once covered this area millions of years ago. The park offers several hiking trails, ranging from easy strolls to more challenging climbs, providing opportunities to explore the petrified wood up close and personal. The colors and patterns of the petrified wood are mesmerizing, a testament to the power of time and the intricate processes of nature. This park is an unexpected gem that reveals the deep geological history of the region.
The following day was dedicated to scenic viewpoints, each offering a unique perspective on the stunning landscape. Calf Creek Recreation Area was a highlight. The hike to Lower Calf Creek Falls is an absolute must-do. The trail winds through a narrow canyon, following a clear stream that meanders through lush vegetation. After a relatively easy hike, you’re rewarded with the sight of a magnificent waterfall cascading into a refreshing pool. The oasis-like atmosphere of the falls is a welcome respite from the desert heat.
Another unforgettable viewpoint is Head of the Rocks Overlook. From this vantage point, you can see a vast panorama of canyons, mesas, and plateaus stretching as far as the eye can see. The scale of the landscape is truly awe-inspiring, a reminder of the immense forces that have shaped this region over millions of years.
But perhaps the most thrilling section of Utah Route Twelve is the Hogsback. This narrow ridge road, with steep drop-offs on either side, is not for the faint of heart. Driving along the Hogsback is an exhilarating experience, offering breathtaking views and a sense of adventure. Take your time, enjoy the scenery, and be mindful of other vehicles. It’s a section of road you will never forget.
Our journey continued to the town of Boulder, one of the most remote communities in the contiguous United States. Visiting Anasazi State Park Museum provided a fascinating glimpse into the lives of the ancient Puebloan people who once inhabited this area. The museum features reconstructed dwellings and artifacts that shed light on their culture and traditions. Imagine living in this arid landscape centuries ago, relying on the resources of the land for survival. The town of Boulder itself is a charming and peaceful place, offering a glimpse into a simpler way of life. Dining at Burr Trail Grill or Hell’s Backbone Grill is a must for experiencing local flavors and hospitality.
Continuing towards the western edge of Capitol Reef National Park revealed another side of the region. While most visitors flock to the eastern, more developed section of Capitol Reef, exploring the western side unveils hidden gems like Cathedral Valley. The rugged terrain and towering monoliths create a sense of isolation and wonder. This area is perfect for those seeking solitude and a deeper connection with nature.
Finally, it was time to return, the journey back offering new perspectives on the landscapes we had already traversed. For those with more time, extending the trip to include Bryce Canyon National Park is highly recommended. Alternatively, returning to Salt Lake City offers a chance to reflect on the incredible experiences of the past few days.
Capturing the Memory
(Include several images of various sights along Route Twelve here. Below are examples of captions.)
Sunset over the Escalante Petrified Forest
The vibrant colors of petrified wood glow under the setting sun in Escalante Petrified Forest State Park.
Lower Calf Creek Falls
The cool waters of Lower Calf Creek Falls offer a refreshing escape in the heart of the Utah desert.
The Hogsback
The thrilling drive along the Hogsback offers unparalleled panoramic views.
Anasazi State Park Museum
Reconstructed dwellings at Anasazi State Park Museum provide a glimpse into the lives of the ancient Puebloan people.
A Timeless Treasure
My journey along Utah Route Twelve National Scenic Byway was more than just a road trip; it was an immersion into a landscape that has been shaped by time and the forces of nature. From the petrified forests to the towering cliffs and the serene waterfalls, every turn revealed a new wonder, a new story waiting to be discovered. This route is a reminder of the power and beauty of the natural world, and a testament to the enduring spirit of the American West.
The Utah Route Twelve National Scenic Byway is a treasure waiting to be explored. Its unique combination of scenic beauty, historical significance, and outdoor adventure makes it a truly unforgettable destination. So, pack your bags, grab your camera, and prepare to embark on a journey through time and wonder. Plan your own adventure along this unforgettable byway, and create memories that will last a lifetime. The red rocks await!
